Explain how the ocean floor affects when and how waves break. Explain how the ocean floor affects when and how waves break.

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06-04-2021
Physics

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Explain how the ocean floor affects when and how waves break. Explain how the ocean floor affects when and how waves break.

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Kevins621idn Kevins621idn · Answer 1 · 2021-04-06T12:31:38-04:00

Kevins621idn Kevins621idn

06-04-2021

Answer:

As waves approach the shore, the bottom of the wave meets the ocean floor. As they drag across the bottom, the front waves slow down, and wavelength is reduced. ... When the wave steepness (the ratio between wave height and wavelength) exceeds a ratio of 1:7, it becomes unstable and breaks.

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